Induction Cook top and Givenergy AC coupled

The inverter is great for providing a reasonably static load but with induction cook top or any other inductive load, i'm less than impressed.
The constant switching with induction cooktops, the inverter has significant lag causing increasing pull from the grid, the end result is around 2KWh of day time import. I have noticed this with most of the inductive loads but the cook top is the worst.

Anyone using Induction cook top with the above inverter and facing similar problems?
Can anything be done about this?

ispookie666 We use an Induction hob not just for cooking, but also for boiling a hob-top kettle. I have found that so long as we don't do everything to the max it works-out quite well. I have found that 8.5 out of 10 on the hob setting draws about 1KW less power. Takes a few seconds longer to boil and uses the same amount per boil (about 0.1 KWh). Our pull from the "peak" grid is regularly less than .5 KWh with a total daily consumption of 14-18 KWh.

I've found using an induction hob works really well as long as I avoid using the "boost" setting which spikes it up to full power. If I use moderate settings (8 - 12 out with a max of 14) I pretty much never draw from the grid at all except for a marginal amount at initial power-on.

For comparison, we use an induction cooker to cook almost every day and my total daily draw from the grid is well under 1kWh unless I run out of battery completely.

Edit: I've got an AC3 inverter coupled to a 9.5kWh battery for context.

My induction hob doesn't seem to switch on/off and just modulates the power required. The higher the number I set it to, the higher the amount of juice needed. I can estimate this by adjusting the dial and then after 5 seconds my smart meter GUI reflects the change.

Ra I guess that there are different approaches by manufacturers as to how to control the power input to their induction hobs. Having a modulated input rather than a burst control (like a microwave) sounds like a better approach; more akin to a gas hob where the volume of gas released is finely controlled.

I agree, I didn't realise induction hobs worked differently to each other, I guess I'm lucky mine works the way it does as I bought it will before having any ideas whatsoever about solar power.

I remember reading a thread either on here or Facebook about a guy who had one of those counter top halogen oven things and because it cycled on and off every 5 seconds the inverter couldn't see it at all so it would use full power from the grid all the time 🙁

i have a counter top two ring which seems to play well with the inverter.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/IsEasy-Electric-Induction-Portable-Cooktop/dp/B091KCL6MV

Induction hobs are generally rated 3kW or 7kW.

3kW will go onto a standard spur; 7kW needs dedicated wiring, cooker switch etc.

The higher rating will allow you to run 4 rings simultaneously with no power drop; and approach the concentrated output of a high gas flame, with the boost setting, e.g. for wok cooking or intense searing.

Personally, I have a 7kW, and really enjoy using the higher setting when required; the higher power draw is very brief in most cooking of this type, and so it doesn't really take that much from the grid, when you average it out.

No issues with mine + hybrid inverter.
Normal barely-there lag as with any normal load changes.
Have a Hisense hob, purchased specifically as it has a power reduction mode to avoid needed wiring upgrades after taking out the gas hob.
80% power (ish) and up uses constant power. Less than that and it cycles.
It's less powerful than previous experience with induction, but still quicker than gas. Also more load can be fed from the PV/battery.

simondoyle Mine is 10.5kW but the only time it gets anywhere near that is Christmas 😃

ispookie666 I have no problem with my, cheap, induction hob. However, my neighbour has similar probems t you. Having metered both of these at the distibution board it seems mine uses low frequency switching to modulate the power and my neighbours uses something closer to PWM - which switches at a much higher frequency. I defy any inverter to keep up with that.

cluelesscris what make is your "cheap" induction hob?

Woodlands Cookology:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155016437845?hash=item2417b32055:g:dcUAAOSwnBBilNVd&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8CAzNcjDt%2Bs65GVofsNxof8C8NLn3MWT0unRaVhWRL6VOmXZ9k1mvCGzdfIEHf0%2B5KSLRXxtj0agE7FiLd2mlAxy3CSHwzNxvJXdkZnO%2BXnlfgJMOMmGdgkFVA%2Fq%2FekDQurqIL%2FCxRW6Ve0ViiVSyZneA99be3NT0Zb2MR2Z9XxF3xFQ4mOs%2BNaTdXp%2B5uZkYDuoasNhDYs%2FegIKTIaF6u6VxOQFCW%2FZvwcvmpDXdB5QR8nRXdyFGfnMfV7Vh7GvnI%2ButCSeQU4vcO5HyTTkoc3efel9wdQEPEUlXQcR0QZFcCxz9lci0XhK9uidUg7dng%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6aJifKcYQ

Although mine was a CIT901 and it cost me £199 (ebay voucher!) two years ago. It's been brilliant.

Good point about PWM. I've had two cheap hobs and one non-cheap (but not expensive) as part of a cooker.
All have used the "cheap" on-off modulation method.
I didn't know a PWM method exists but it would certainly be more premium if it did, though in this case worse for us.