Axle VPP and Solar Iboost +

I had managed to build one of the small receivers in this post and get it all working, but at some point the way ESP security was handled "broke" my integration. I have ordered and built more ESP modules, but cannot get things to work again.
https://community-beta.givenergy.cloud/t/solar-iboost-remote-control-now-available-in-ha/2035

When I join an Axle even, I dont seem to export as much as predbat predicts. I think export starts, the iBoost sees the export and then takes all the power.

I now plan to use a smart 13A plug and automation turn off the iBoost when the Axle event starts. Does anyone have any recommendations of any plugs to use or NOT use. I have a UPXNBOR plug rated 13A 3130W, but I want to make sure what ever I sue is up to the task.

Immersion heater may be too high a load to run through a smart 13A plug. Better perhaps to use a proper wired smart controller, or use a cheap one to operate a contactor to switch the actual load.

DD
Thanks. That was my thoughts. Any recommendations please for a wired smart controller?
The immersion heater is rated 3kW max, so a 13A plug should be OK, but I am worried about continuous load when there is no Axle event and the iBoost is using as much solar as it can grab

Tesla T Smart - you can see the tank temps then as well.
Can just buy the head and screw it on to the existing immersion.

SteveCook EV people say that even the 10A typically drawn by granny chargers is on the high side. Kettles get away with high power since they're only on for a couple of mins.

Also risk of arcing when turning off under full load ?

All I did was put a switch on the output of the iBoost because its normally not in use.

That presents an open circuit to the iBoost and indicates "tank hot". Close the switch and it'll operate normally until the immersion heater thermostat opens (ie tank is actually hot).

That way you're not turning the iboost unit on and off, which is bound to decrease lifespan.

Were I to automate it then a contactor is the way to go. Have a look at some of the grow shops, they have fairly chunky contactors.

I found I had a Timeguard FSTWIFI fused spur kicking around and I thought I would try that. I remember it had been really difficult to connect it to the Timeguard app. Trying Tuya app was no good at all. I found I really needed an FSTWIFIU (Tuya Edition) version. I bought one and that connected no problem and was instantly picked up by HA. I then setup two integrations. One turns the fuse spur (and I boost+) off when Axle event starts and another turns the fuse spur back on when the Axle event ends.
I would prefer to have fixed the ESP32 module integration as this allows other info to be pulled from the iBoost+, but I have wasted hours so far getting nowhere.

@SteveCook Off topic I know but, As I understand it Axle sends commands to your inverter to control the Export events when they happen. What actually happens if you have the HA Axle integration by Generating the Axle Token, do you control your own schedules through the times notified through the Axle API, or do Axle continue to send Remote commands to your inverter at the time of the event. I was just pondering this scenario and wondered if you could end up with two sets of conflicting instructions being sent to the inverter.

AS I understand it, Predbat detects the event, but Axle send commands to the inverter - according to my logs.
I just want to get my iBoost+ out of the loop detecting export and then it switching on and sucking up the energy.
There is an event tonight at 20:00

Thank you that is very helpful. I think I understand better how it operates now. Good luck with the iBoost+.

I'd still recommend you fit this on the output of the iBoost rather than powering the entire device on/off.

Its the logical place to put a switch.

Vestas
A job for another day.
Better still get my ESP32 working!!

Put the Timeguard WifI switch on the output of the iBoost+, problem is that when the immersion probe goes open circuit (water hot), the iBoost detects that and shows "Water Hot" and shuts off power to the circuit. That then dops the power to the wifi switch and so I loose any control. Doh!!

Marlec suggest turning off the sender to prevent solar use, (remove battery), but they do sell a dc powered sender unit the power supply of which could be switched. Part No: CA-20/22X

SteveCook Yeah so you wire up the live/neutral on the timeguard to the live/neutral on the input of the iBoost. Then you wire the output of the iBoost to the switched live connection on the timeguard, assuming it has one (been about 10 years since I wired a timeguard in).